He inquired about our recent trips to Mongolia and Xian. Simple enough idle banter, only it took my entire life force to string together a few intelligent sentences because my neighbor's father was next to us, bent in half and ramming his shoulder repeatedly into a Hawthorn tree. He then began to grind the back of his neck against the tree, grunting and huffing like a yoked ox.
Me: "Xi'an. Uh. Yes. Uh. Xi'an. Yes. Uh. Xi'an was uh great *pause* yes, we, um, loved Xi'an."
Neighbor: "How long did you stay?"
Father: "Uuuuuuhhhhhhhh." Bam! "Uhhhhhhhhhhhh." Bam. "RRRRRRRRRRRUUUUUUhhhhh."
Me: "Stay? Uh. Oh, yeah. Xi'an. Uh. Yes we stayed there."
I bumbled away and my neighbor was looking at me strangely. He must have though I was high or stupid. Really, I was just trying to be polite and not gawk or point and laugh out loud. In the US, such behavior is the domain of itchy bears or rutting elk or, say, folks confined to the looney bin.
I've seen many odd exercise rituals in China. I'm used to them. Most exercise is done outside in public so an early morning trip to a park or an evening trip to any patch of concrete large to accommodate line dancing is entertaining. The difference is I have always seen, say, men crawling around in circles in the dirt from a safe distance--far enough to discretely oogle, lift my jaw off the ground, or laugh until I cry or pee my pants. I've never waded in for a better look fearing it too rude or insensitive. I really wasn't prepared for a close encounter with elk man. I was so happy and relieved when my sobbing child extracted me from the scene. "Oops, gotta run! Bye!" I said and skipped off.
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It's not uncommon to see people holding odd or uncomfortable positions for a long time. My friend Mark got this great shot of a man standing on his head on concrete. |
Man crawling on all fours in the park. He does this every day at 2:00 pm. |
Another common form of exercise in Beijing is walking backwards. Already for some--myself included--, walking backwards is a tough task. Add to it the unevenness of pavement: craters, un-cordoned construction zones, cars driving on sidewalks, sheer ledges into cess-pit canals, and you have a downright dangerous activity! Extra points go to people who walk backwards while slapping themselves. Gold stars to those traveling in reverse, slapping themselves and singing opera.
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This kind man was playing Chinese Yo Yo. He ran string up to the top of a pine tree and was throwing the yo-yo up the line. |
The first time I saw someone walking backwards slapping himself silly I was on a path that cut below a bridge. It was dark under there and for once there was not a single person around. I had the death plunge into stinky canal on my right, the 3rd ring road above my head, concrete pylons to my left and Sergeant Nutter barreling backwards towards me. I scampered back up the path and hid behind a bush while he spanked himself up the hill.
On my way home that day I saw a man carefully wrap a eucalyptus tree with a golden swath of fabric. He then stood a few feet from the tree and flung himself forward and up to chest-butt the tree. He was still heaving his body at the tree when I left the park an hour later. Trees are common exercise partners, mostly because they are there and they are free. Come spring you will see apples and peaches and Chinese people hanging from them as they stretch their limbs or do some pull ups.
This Chinese Yo-Yo has grooves in it that make an a sound like a didgeridoo on speed. |
You tai chi your way to work, ride your bike to the store, jian (Chinese hackey sack) on break with your buds, you slap yourself while waiting in line, ballroom dance in the plaza after dinner and che ling (Chinese yo-yo) on Saturdays in the park. Analog exercise machines encircle most playgrounds so adults can exercise while watching the kids play--brilliant! Note to self: I should really use those machines.
This Man attached a dragon kite to his yo -yo for added WOW.
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You find public exercise equipment in every park, plaza and square, not matter how small the town. The equipment is kept clean and in good working condition. |
Often times exercise equipment encircles a playground. The adults can get exercise while the children play! Brilliant! I should actually try it sometime. |
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